Sunday, August 14, 2005

Knives Continued

Types of knives

Knives exist in several styles:

Fixed Blade Knives

A fixed blade is a knife in which the blade does not fold and extends most of the way into the handle. This type of knife is typically stronger and larger than a folding knife. Activities that require a strong blade, such as hunting or fighting, typically rely on a fixed blade. Some famous fixed blade designs include the
Ka-bar and Bowie knives.


Folding Knives

A folding knife is one that has a pivot between handle and blade, allowing the blade to fold into the handle. Most folding knives are small working blades, pocket knives are usually folding knives.
Some folding knives have a locking mechanism:

The most traditional and commonplace lock is the slip-joint. This isn't really a lock at all, and is found most commonly on traditional pocket knives. It consists of a backspring that wedges itself into a notch on the tang on the back of the blade.

The lockback is the simplest true locking knife. It is found on most traditional locking knives. It is like a slip-joint, but the lock consists of a latch rather than a backspring. To disengage, one presses the latch on the spine of the knife down, releasing the tang.

The linerlock is the most common today on knives, especially so-called "tactical" folders. Its main advantage is that it allows one to disengage the lock with one hand. It consists of a liner bent so that when the blade opens, the liner presses against the rear of the tang, preventing it from swinging back. To disengage, you press the liner to the side of the knife from where it is attached to the inside of the scales.

The framelock is a variant of the linerlock, however, instead of using the liner, the frame functions as an actual spring. It is usually much more secure than a liner lock.

There are many other modern locks with various degrees of effectiveness. Most of these are particular to single brands, most notably Benchmade's AXIS(tm) lock and SpyderCo's Compression(tm) lock. SOG ARC LOCK is another one that is very good.

Many folding knives (particularly locking models) have a small knob, or thumb-screw that allows the user to open the knife quickly with one hand.

Dorsal vs. Ansall
In the
middle ages, a dorsal meant a knife with a 'back', or a one-sided knife. An ansall was a two-sided knife, with a blade on both sides. These terms have since fallen out of use.



Knife Function

In general, knives are either working (everyday-use blades), or fighting knives. Some knives, such as the Scottish
Dirk and Japanese Tanto function in both roles. Many knives are specific to a particular activity or occupation:

A bread knife is a special knife with a longer, serrated blade especially designed for easily cutting all types of
bread. The blade is straight with a blunt end. The serrations (teeth) allow it to cut bread using less vertical force, so keeping the bread from being compressed. They also leave fewer crumbs than most other knives.

A hunting knife is normally used to dress large game. It is often a normal, mild curve or a curved and clipped blade.
A
scalpel is a medical knife, used to perform surgery. It is one of the sharpest knives available.

A stockman's knife is a very versatile folding knife with three blades: a clip, a spey and a normal. It is one of the most popular folding knives ever made.

A dive or diver's knife is adapted for underwater use.
Dacor dive knives have tough thermal plastic handles, durable sheaths, and a convenient push-button release, for example.

Utility, or multi-tool knives may contain several blades, as well as other tools such as pliers. Examples include
Leatherman, SOG, Gerber, Wenger and Victorinox (The "Swiss Army knife") tools.

An electrician's knife is specially insulated to decrease the chance of shock.


A
kukri is a Nepalese fighting and utility knife with a deep forward curve.


Machete blade

A
machete is a long wide blade, used to chop through brush. This tool (larger than most knives, smaller than a sword) depends more on weight than a razor edge for its cutting power.

A survival knife is a sturdy knife, sometimes with a hollow handle filled with equipment. In the best hollow-handled knives, both blade and handle are cut from a single piece of steel. The end usually has an
O-ring seal to keep water out of the handle. Often a small compass is set in the inside, protected part of the pommel/cap.

The pommel may be adapted to pounding or chipping. Recommended equipment for the handle: a compass (usually in the pommel). Monofilament line (for snares, fishing), 12 feet of black nylon thread and two needles, a couple of plastic ties, two barbed and one unbarbed fishhook (unbarbed doubles as a suture needle), butterfly bandages, halizone tablets, waterproof matches.

Special purpose blades may not be made of metal. Plastic, wood and ceramic knives exist. In most applications, these relatively fragile knives are used to avoid easy detection.


Custom-made knives called
microtomes are used to cut specimens for microscopy. The sharpest knives ever constructed are probably the ultramicrotomes with diamond edges used to slice samples for electron microscopes.

A
boning knife is used for deboning meat, poultry, and fish.
For whittling (artistic wood carving) a blade as short as 25mm (1 inch) is common.


Serrations on a blade "saw" through the item being cut and stay sharp for a long time. The points protect the slicing areas from nicks. A good serration pattern will stay sharp several times as long as a straight edge.

The edge is sharpened at different angles for different purposes. 15 to 25 degrees is a good all-around angle. Slicing knives should have sharper angles, down to ten degrees. Chopping knives need blunter angles, out to thirty degrees.


Using knives

A sharp knife is a safe knife. Dull knives lead to excessive use of force to cut materials, increasing the chance that the blade may slip and the force will be transferred to an unintended destination such as yourself or another person or object.

In
Boy Scout parlance, an area within the radius of the arm and blade length combined is called the 'blood circle'. Also, a dull or damaged knife will inflict a worse wound than a relatively 'clean' cut from a sharp knife.

Knives proffered to another person should always be offered handle first.

A knife should be kept clean, dry and sharp. Steel blades
rust easily, but oiling will prevent pitting due to oxidation and tarnish. Most knives are not intended as pry bars or screwdrivers.

Either use is likely to break off the tip of the blade, or to bend or break the knife beyond repair. Most high quality knives are also tempered very hard, so that they will retain an edge longer. However, this also makes them brittle.


Sharpening

Knives are sharpened by grinding against a hard surface, typically stone. The smaller the angle between the blade and stone, the sharper the knife will be, but the faster it will dull. A guide is very helpful. Very sharp knives sharpen at 12-15 degrees.

Typical knives sharpen at 22 degrees. Knives that chop may sharpen at 25 degrees. In short, the harder the material to be cut the higher the angle of the edge. The composition of the stone affects the sharpness of the blade (finer grain produces sharper blades), as does the composition of the blade (some metals take/keep an edge better than others).

Examples of sharpening tools are the clamp-style systems, which use a clamp with several holes with pre-defined angles. The stone is mounted on a rod and is pulled through these holes, so that the angle remains consistent.

Another variant is the crock stick setup, where two sticks are put into a plastic or wooden base to form a V shape. When you pull a knife up the V, the angle is held for you, as long as you hold the blade perpendicular to the base.

Remove a wire edge (burr) if one forms during sharpening. Use a slighly steeper angle with very light pressure to do so. If not removed, it will break off in use, and the knife will instantly become dull. An alternate method of removing a wire edge is stroking from side to side on a very fine stone, using light strokes. This will flip the burr back and forth as it is ground off.

To feel for a wire edge, move your thumb lightly across the edge. It should come off with no resistance. If you feel a little bit of pull at the edge or the nail is sightly abraded, you may have a wire burr.

Honing stones (also called
whetstones) come with coarse and fine grits and can be hard or soft describing whether the grit comes free.

Arkansas is a traditional source for honing stones, which are traditionally (though a poor practice) used with water or honing oil.

India is another traditional source for stones.

Ceramic hones are also common, especially for fine grit size.
Water stones (both artificial and natural) come in very fine grits. They are stored in water, and develop a layer of slurry which dulls the edge if you hone the blade as if honing into the stone. Generally, these are more costly than oilstones. Oil is not to be used on these.

Oil is sometimes used to lift the metal dust, called swarf, off the stone. This is generally bad to do during polishing. There are better ways than oil to clean a hone.

Coated hones, which have an abrasive, sometimes diamonds, on a base of plastic or metal are another kind of hone. Rather expensive, are sharpening blocks made with
corundum.

Stropping a knife is sometimes a finishing step. This is traditionally done with a leather strap impregnated with abrasive compounds, but can be done on paper, cardstock, or even cloth in a pinch. It will not cut the edge significantly, but produces a very sharp edge with very little metal loss. It is useful when a knife is still sharp, but has lost that 'scary sharp' edge from use.

Other times the final step is done with a steel. This fine process can effect alignment of the edge. Realigning the edge goes a long way in keeping the knife sharp, as often times, a rolled edge will make an otherwise sharp knife dull.


Mechanical Consideration of Rolled Edges

If a knife is used as a scraper or encounters hard particles in softer materials or is used asymmetrically, there may be a sideways load near the tip. In this case the knife should resist bending or breaking.

Making some simplifying assumptions about the forces and the knife edge's ability to resist them may shed some light on ideal sharpening. Assume the knife is thin and the force is applied at the very edge.

Sheets of material are bent by stretching the outside or compressing the inside. Both the area taking the force and the lever arm converting force to torque are proportional to thickness, so the bending resistance is proportional to the square of the thickness. (That explains the strength per weight of aluminum, compared to steel.)

If the force is applied at the edge, the bending torque is proportional to the distance from the edge. So, in this case, the ideal cross section is proportional to the square root of the distance from the edge. This is a (microscopic) parabola. This contrasts to the usual practice of trying to sharpen knives to a wedge near the edge.

Perhaps this sheds light on the function of razor straps and on the practice of using two angle guides to sharpen a knife.
On the other hand if the type of use cannot be predicted, it may be better to sharpen it to a wedge and let the first use bend the edge to an appropriate curve.


A wedge shape has the property called "scale invariance". It has the same relative shape for any depth of cut.


Legal considerations

Even small knives are forbidden on all commercial airliners and are among the illegal imports that may be confiscated at airports by customs staff even if packed in luggage.

The knife laws of different countries vary, but are generally strict in Western countries.

Knife laws in U.S. cities vary tremendously. In
Texas, for example, individuals may carry knives openly or concealed so long as they are single-edged, and are not daggers, switchblades, or gravity knives (balisong legality is questionable — there have been convictions). In some other States, fixed-blade knives are banned, open carry is banned, and sometimes concealed carry of anything except pocketknives is banned.

Cities have ordinances further restricting these laws; in San Antonio, TX, it is a violation to carry a folding knife having a locking blade. In some metro areas such as Washington, D.C., going into office buildings or museums, or simply loitering, carrying even small 3" folding knives can be problematic.

Other restricted areas in the U.S. include court buildings and federal property (the latter of which technically has a limit of 2.5inches for blades).

Carrying knives in public is generally forbidden by law in many countries. Exceptions may be made for hunting knives, and for knives used for work-related purposes (e.g. chef's knives).

Automatic knives (
switchblades) are almost universally banned from civilian carry if not possession. Balisongs (butterfly knives) are only slightly less stigmatized, and tend to be treated as switchblades by unfriendly law enforcement agencies.

Most Western European nations are very unfriendly toward all knives other than small pocket knives and similarly small tools, which are nonetheless not allowed on planes or in certain other venues.

Even multitools like the
SwissTool, Gerber multitools, and Leatherman multitools are often frowned upon, due to their having relatively large blades and/or locking ability.


Knife modifications

Knives can be sometimes be customised to the user and/or application:
The handle can be altered in shape (for better grip) or material (to prevent electrical shock or burns).

The surface finish of the blade can be darkened or polished.


Comments:



<< Home

This page is powered by Blogger. Isn't yours?